Province: British Columbia
Location: E of headwaters of Tête Creek
NTS map: 83D/13
Official name listed at BC Geographical Names
In 1915, Andrew J. Gilmour (1871–1941) attempted an exploration of the then unknown Cariboo mountains. The attempt, with E. W. D. Holway of the University of Minnesota, was largely defeated by continuous bad weather. In 1916, Gilmour took part in explorations of the peaks and glaciers north of Mount Whitehorn and west of the Robson Pass, including the first ascent of Mount Longstaff. With Newman D. Waffl and Helen I. Buck, he made the first ascent of Mount Sir Alexander in 1929. Gilmour Glacier was named in 1947 by Raymond T. Zillmer.
Gilmour was born in New York, where he practiced medicine until his retirement. Of a weak constitution since his youth, he was told while studying medicine that if he wanted to live, he had to spend as much time as possible in the open. He took up mountaineering, and climbed extensively in the Alps, the Pyrenees, the Rockies, and the Cascades. A gymnast while at Yale University, he retained for many years his fondness for acrobatics. According to an obituary in the 1940 Canadian Alpine Journal, he “was always ready for a test of skill, and expressed his joy, if conditions permitted, at reaching a summit by standing on his head on the highest point and waving his legs.”
- Canadian Alpine Journal. Banff, Alberta: