Author Archives: Swany

Boundary Commission Sheet 27 B

Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924

Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924
Internet Archive

References:

  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia – Part III – from 1918 to 1924. Atlas. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925
  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Parts IIIA & IIIB, 1918 to 1924. From Yellowhead Pass Northerly. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925. Whyte Museum

Boundary Commission Sheet 27 A

Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924

Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924
Internet Archive

References:

  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia – Part III – from 1918 to 1924. Atlas. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925
  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Parts IIIA & IIIB, 1918 to 1924. From Yellowhead Pass Northerly. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925. Whyte Museum

Boundary Commission Sheet 27

Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924

Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924
Internet Archive

Alberta-British Columbia Boundary Commission maps 1924

Sheet 27 — Mount Hooker to Whirlpool Pass. Surveyed in 1920, 1921

References:

  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia – Part III – from 1918 to 1924. Atlas. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925
  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Parts IIIA & IIIB, 1918 to 1924. From Yellowhead Pass Northerly. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925. Whyte Museum

Boundary Commission Sheet 26

References:

  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia – Part III – from 1918 to 1924. Atlas. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925
  • Cautley, Richard William [1873–1953], and Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Parts IIIA & IIIB, 1918 to 1924. From Yellowhead Pass Northerly. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925. Whyte Museum

Boundary Commission Index Sheet 3

Index sheet 3. Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924

Index sheet 3. Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924
Internet Archive


Index sheet 3 (detail). Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924

Index sheet 3 (detail). Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924
Internet Archive

Alberta-British Columbia maps 1924
Index Sheet 3 — Yellowhead Pass to Peace River

Sheet 29Yellowhead Pass. Surveyed in 1917
Sheet 29 AMiette Hill to Yellowhead Pass. Surveyed in 1917
Sheet 29 BYellowhead Pass to Tête Roche. Surveyed in 1917
Sheet 30Mount O’Beirne to Colonel Pass. Surveyed in 1922, 1924
Sheet 31Colonel Pass to Moose Pass. Surveyed in 1922
Sheet 32Moose Pass to Carcajou Pass. Surveyed in 1922, 1924
Sheet 32 ARobson Pass. Surveyed in 1924
Sheet 33Carcajou Pass to Jackpine Pass. Surveyed in 1923
Sheet 34Jackpine Pass to Mount Holmes. Surveyed in 1923
Sheet 35Chalco Mountain to Beaverdam Pass. Surveyed in 1923
Sheet 36Big Shale Hill to Loren Lake. Surveyed in 1923
Sheet 37Avalanche Pass to Casket Pass. Surveyed in 1923, 1924
Sheet 38 — To Intersection Mountain. Surveyed in 1924
Sheet 39 — North of Intersection Mountain to Kakwa River. Surveyed in 1924

References:

  • Interprovincial Boundary Commission. Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Index Sheet 3. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1924. Internet Archive

Boundary Commission Index Sheet 2

Index sheet 2. Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924

Index sheet 2. Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924
Internet Archive


Index sheet 2 (detail). Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924

Index sheet 2 (detail). Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Office of the Surveyor-General, 1924
Internet Archive

Alberta-British Columbia Boundary Commission maps 1924
Index Sheet 2 — Kicking Horse Pass to Yellowhead Pass

Sheet 26 — Mount Brown to Whirlpool. Surveyed 1920
Sheet 27 — Mount Hooker to Whirlpool Pass. Surveyed in 1920, 1921
Sheet 27 A — Athabasca Pass. Surveyed in 1921
Sheet 27 B — Whirlpool Pass. Surveyed in 1921
Sheet 28 — Mount Whitecrow to Tonquin Pass. Surveyed in 1921
Sheet 29 — Yellowhead Pass. Surveyed in 1917
Sheet 29 A — Miette Hill to Yellowhead Pass. Surveyed in 1917
Sheet 29 B — Yellowhead Pass to Tête Roche. Surveyed in 1917

References:

  • Interprovincial Boundary Commission. Boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. Index Sheet 2. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1924. Internet Archive

James Monroe Thorington

James Monroe Thorington [1895–1989]

b. 1895 — Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA
d. 1989 — Germantown, Pennsylvania, USA

Thorington, an ophthalmologist in Philadelphia, was a mountaineer and mountain historian. A pre-eminent climber and explorer in the Canadian Rockies starting in 1922. Thorington wrote approximately 300 publications on mountaineering, mountain history and the Canadian Rockies. He was active in numerous organizations, particularly the American Alpine Club.

Sources of biographical information about Thorington:

  • Bates, Robert H. “James Monroe Thorington, 1894-1989.” American Alpine Journal, (1990) American Alpine Club
  • Thorington, James Monroe [1895–1989]. “J. Monroe Thorington fonds M106 / V622.” (1974) Whyte Museum
Works pertinent to the Mount Robson area of which Thorington was author or co-author:

  • —  and Palmer, Howard [1883–1944]. A Climbers Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada. New York: American Alpine Club, 1921
  • —   Old Trails and New Peaks in the Canadian Rockies. Philadelphia: 1922
  • —   “The mountains of the Whirlpool.” Alpine Journal, Vol. 36 November (1924)
  • —   The Glittering Mountains of Canada. A record of exploration and pioneering ascents in the Canadian Rockies 1914-1924. Philadelphia: John W. Lea, 1925
  • —   “Side-valleys and peaks of the Yellowhead Trail.” Alpine Journal, Vol. 37 (1925):47, 317
  • —   “The Centenary of David Douglas’ ascent of Mount Brown.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 16 (1927):139-147
  • —   “Trails of the Athabaska and Columbia.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 17 (1928):22-33
  • —   “Mounts Brown and Hooker. A reply.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 17 (1928):68-70
  • —   “Up the Athabasca Valley.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 20 (1931):36
  • —   “Conrad Kain, In memoriam.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 22 (1933):184-187
  • Kain, Conrad [1883–1934], and —  editor. Where the Clouds Can Go. New York City: American Alpine Club, 1935
  • —   A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia. New York: American Alpine Club, 1937
  • —   “Donald Phillips, 1884-1938.” American Alpine Journal, Vol 3, No. 3 (1939). American Alpine Club
  • —   “Howard Palmer, 1883-1944.” American Alpine Journal, (1945). American Alpine Club
  • —   “Canada, Cariboo Range.” American Alpine Journal, Vol. 7, No. 2 (1949). American Alpine Club
  • —   “Raymond T. Zillmer, 1887-1960.” American Alpine Journal, 12:2 (1961). American Alpine Club
  • —   “J. Monroe Thorington fonds M106 / V622.” (1974)

Donald “Curly” Phillips

Donald Phillips on Mt. Robson at altitude 12,000 feet.
Photo: Rev. G. B. Kinney, 1909

Donald Phillips on Mt. Robson at altitude 12,000 feet.
Photo: Rev. G. B. Kinney, 1909
Canadian Alpine Journal, 1910


A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition
Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911

A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition
Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911
Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies


Donald Philips and his pack ponies. 
Photo, Julia Wilcox, 1913

Donald Philips and his pack ponies.
Photo, Julia Wilcox, 1913
Canadian Alpine Journal 1915

Donald “Curly” Phillips [1884–1938]

b. 1884 — Dorset, Ontario, Canada
d. 1938 — Jasper, Alberta, Canada

Donald “Curly” Phillips [1884–1938] was a Jasper guide and outfitter who accompanied George R. B. Kinney [1872–1961] almost to the top of Mount Robson in 1909. Phillips spent his youth in the Lake of the Bays district of Ontario, where he became an expert woodsman and master of white water craft. He was a member of the Guide’s Association of Ontario.

He came to the Jasper region in 1909 to explore the country and start an outfitting and guiding business. He met George Kinney on the Athabasca River that year, when Kinney was looking for a partner to for his third attempt on Mount Robson. Although Phillips had no mountain climbing experience, he joined Kinney, and they made several ascents around the end of July, finally reaching, on Friday, August 13, what Kinney claimed was the peak. Phillips later stated that the highest point had not been reached.

“I found in Phillips a very prince of the trail,” wrote Kinney. “Quick, handy, a splendid cook and bubbling over with good nature, he made a camp-mate that could not be excelled. Never in all the hard days did he utter a word of discouragement, or falter in our undertaking, and though he had never climbed mountains before that summer, he proved to be a cool-headed and cautious climber. I have seldom seen his equal.”

Phillips catered and acted as guide to the 1911 Alpine Club of Canada–Smithsonian Robson Expedition organized by Arthur Oliver Wheeler [1860–1945], president of the Alpine Club of Canada. Wheeler described Phillips as a “superman” and “a mighty hunter,” “a skilled river-driver” who “can cross any kind of water on a single stick big enough to hold him.”

Phillips also catered for the Alpine Club of Canada’s 1913 camp, during which William Wasborough Foster [1875–1954], Albert H. McCarthy [1876–1956], and Conrad Kain [1883–1934] made the first indisputable ascent of Mount Robson. Phillips built a causeway along the edge of the Robson River gorge, beside White Falls and the Falls of the Pool, which gave hikers and horses access to Berg Lake from the railway.

He took Mary Lenore Jobe Akeley [1878–1966] on her exploratory trip to Mount Sir Alexander (which she called “Mount Kitchi”) in 1915 and later organized many canoe trips on the Peace and Mackenzie rivers. Phillips also catered for the second Mount Robson camp in 1924, for the Tonquin Valley camp in 1926, and for the Maligne Lake camp in 1930, when he was handling tourist motor boat transportation on Medicine and Maligne lakes. He became the most renowned tourist guide of the region.

Phillips died in an avalanche while skiing on the slopes of Elysium Mountain near Jasper. In a memoriam published in the 1937 Canadian Alpine Journal, Wheeler called him “A splendid specimen of manhood; fearless, always efficient, always full of resource, always even-tempered, he was the prefect guide in whom his patrons had the greatest confidence, and he will long be remembered in the annals of Jasper.”

Sources of biographical information about Phillips:

  • Wheeler, Arthur Oliver [1860–1945]. “In Memorian: ‘Curly’ Phillips.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 25 (1937):117
  • Thorington, James Monroe [1895–1989]. “Donald Phillips, 1884-1938.” American Alpine Journal, Vol 3, No. 3 (1939) American Alpine Club
  • Hart, Edward John “Ted” [1946–]. Diamond hitch: the early outfitters and guides of Banff and Jasper. Banff: Summerthought, 1979
  • Taylor, William C. Tracks across my trail. Donald “Curly” Phillips, guide and outfitter. Jasper: Jasper-Yellowhead Historical Society, 1984
  • Scott, Chic. ‪Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering

    48 50 62. Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 2000 Internet Archive

Phillips is the namesake of the following places in the Mount Robson region:

Events in the Mount Robson region in which Phillips was involved:

  • 1906 ACC organized, Mount Robson attempt proposed
  • 1909 Kinney and Phillips at Mount Robson
  • 1911 ACC-Smithsonian Robson expedition (outfitter)
  • 1912 Phillips builds trail to Berg Lake
  • 1913 ACC Camp – Mount Robson (packer)
  • 1914 Jobe-Phillips expedition Mt. Kitchi
  • 1915 Jobe-Phillips to Kitchi
  • 1915 Jobe’s second expedition to Mount Sir Alexander (guide)
  • 1917 Jobe trip to Wapiti
Works pertinent to the Mount Robson region of which Phillips was author or co-author:

  • —   “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44
  • Kinney, George Rex Boyer [1872–1961], and —   “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44
  • —   “Fitzhugh to Laggan. Report by Donald Phillips to A. O. Wheeler, Director of the Alpine Club, Canada.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 4 (1912):83-86
  • —   “Winter conditions north and west of Mt. Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):128-135
  • —   “Athabaska Pass to Tonquin Valley via Goat and Fraser Rivers.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 13 (1923):153
  • —   Banff: M106/147 (1924).
References:

  • Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44
  • Kinney, George Rex Boyer [1872–1961], and Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44
  • Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “Fitzhugh to Laggan. Report by Donald Phillips to A. O. Wheeler, Director of the Alpine Club, Canada.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 4 (1912):83-86
  • Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “Winter conditions north and west of Mt. Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):128-135
  • Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “Athabaska Pass to Tonquin Valley via Goat and Fraser Rivers.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 13 (1923):153
  • Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. Banff: M106/147 (1924).
  • British Columbia Geographical Names. Phillips, Donald “Curly”

George R. B. Kinney

The Reverend George R.B. Kinney; Proctor, BC.

The Reverend George R.B. Kinney; Proctor, BC. BC Archives


Camp among last bushes. 7000 feet. Lucius Coleman, Arthur Coleman, George Kinney. 1907

Camp among last bushes. 7000 feet. Lucius Coleman, Arthur Coleman, George Kinney. 1907 Coleman, The Canadian Rockies. New and Old trails. p. 327


A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911

A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition
Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911 Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

George Rex Boyer Kinney [1872–1961]

b. 1872 — Victoria Corner, New Brunswick, Canada
d. 1961 — Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

Kinney became interested in climbing while serving as a minister of the Methodist Church in Banff and Field [1]. He accompanied Arthur Philemon Coleman [1852–1939] on his unsuccessful trips to Mount Robson in 1907 and 1908 [2]. Kinney returned alone in July 1909, met Donald “Curly” Phillips [1884–1938] near Jasper, and travelled with him through the Yellowhead Pass and the Moose River valley to Mount Robson. After being repelled by weather several times, they reached what Kinney and Phillips reported to be the peak of Mount Robson [3] [4].

During the Alpine Club of Canada camp at Mount Robson in 1913, Phillips stated that he and Kinney had not ascended a final 50-foot dome of snow [5], and official credit for climbing the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies goes to Conrad Kain, William Wasborough Foster [1875–1954], and Albert H. McCarthy [1876–1956] [6].

See Kinney at Robson for more information.
[7]

Kinney is the namesake of the following places in the Mount Robson region:

Events in the Mount Robson region in which Kinney was involved:

  • 1906 ACC organized, Mount Robson attempt proposed
  • 1906 ACC Camp – Yoho
  • 1907 Schaffer meets Coleman in Wilcox Pass
  • 1907 ACC Camp – Paradise Valley
  • 1907 Coleman – Laggan to Robson
  • 1908 Coleman – Edmonton to Robson
  • 1909 Kinney and Phillips at Mount Robson
  • 1909 kinney returns to Edmonton
  • 1911 ACC-Smithsonian Robson expedition (assistant)
Works pertinent to the Mount Robson region of which Kinney was author or co-author:

  • —   Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. AC 014M George Kinney photographs and price lists. (1907). Whyte Museum
  • —   Photographs and price lists (M200 / AC 014M) (1907). Whyte Museum
  • —   Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. Alpine Club of Canada fonds, V14, M200 (1907). Whyte Museum
  • —   “Mount Stephen.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 1 (1907):91
  • —   “Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2 (1909):10-16
  • —   Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. ACC fonds M200/III (1909). Whyte Museum
  • —   “The ascent of Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.” Bulletin of the American Geographical Society, vol. 42, no. 7 (1910):496-511. JSTOR
  • —  and Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44
  • —   “Trail From Maligne Lake To Laggan. Report of the Rev. G. Kinney to the Alpine Club of Canada.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 4 (1912):81
  • —   Canadian Mountain Climbing. Vancouver, B.C.: The Canadian Club of Vancouver, 1913
  • —   London, England: Royal Geographical Society Archives. Letter to Arthur Hinks (1917).
  • —   Carnet de visites, agenda medical (sketchbook created in France) (1919). Library and Archives Canada
  • —   London, England: Royal Geographical Society Archives. Letter to Doctor Hinks (1936).
References:

  • 1. Mortimore, G. E. “The preacher who climbed Mount Robson Peak.” Daily Colonist [Victoria, BC], (9 April 1950)
  • 2. Coleman, Arthur Philemon P. [1852–1939]. The Canadian Rockies: New and Old Trails. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1911. Internet Archive [accessed 3 March 2025]
  • 3. Kinney, George Rex Boyer [1872–1961], and Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44. Alpine Club of Canada
  • 4. Kinney, George Rex Boyer [1872–1961]. Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. ACC fonds M200/III (1909). Whyte Museum
  • 5. Parker, Elizabeth J. [1856–1944]. “A new field for mountaineering.” Scribner’s Magazine, 55 (1914)
  • 6. Kain, Conrad [1883–1934]. “The first ascent of Mt. Robson, the highest peak of the Rockies.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):22-
  • 7. Swanson, James L. [1947–]. Banff: George Kinney and the first ascent of Mount Robson (1999). Spiral Road