March 1906

When the Alpine Club of Canada was organized in 1906, its first president, Arthur Oliver Wheeler [1860–1945], suggested to Arthur Philemon Coleman [1852–1939] that he undertake the conquest of the mountain. [1]

Founding member Elizabeth Parker [1856–1944] presented the rational of the formation of the Alpine Club of Canada:

“The objects of the Club are : (I) the promotion of scientific study and the exploration of Canadian alpine and glacial regions; (2) the cultivation of Art in relation to mountain scenery ; (3) the education of Canadians to an appreciation of their mountain heritage; (4) the encouragement, of the mountain craft and the opening of new regions as a national playground ; (5) the preservation of the natural beauties of the mountain places and of the fauna and flora in their habitat; (6) and the interchange of ideas with other Alpine organizations.”[2]

In addition to these objects, Parker proclaimed the moral virtues of mountaineering:

But the peril is, that men become satiated with wheat, and there, follows that effeteness which is worse than the effeteness of an unbalanced culture. Among other correctives none is more effective than this of the exercise of the mountain-craft. No sport is so likely to cure a fool of his foolishness as the steady pull, with a peril or two of another sort attending, of a season’s mountain climbing in one of those “thrilling regions of thick-ribbed ice” in the wild alpine playground of Canada. The ethical value of mountaineering is a subject upon which our statesmen would do well to ponder; and there is a considerable Canadian Alpine literature from which they may gather data.

Any young man of latent intellectual and moral force, who comes to close grips with the waiting, challenging mountains, and puts one summit after another beneath the soles of his feet, has gained immensely in the Spartan virtues. Moreover, he has, by climbing to these skiey stations and standing face to face with Infinitude, learned some things he may not tell, because they are unspeakable. It is given to very few, to utter such experiences. But there comes to the mountaineer of pure mind and willing spirit the sense of which Wordsworth tells, of the presence interfused in Nature; the presence that dwells among the sheer peaks and in the living air and the blue sky and in the mind of man; the motion and the spirit that rolls through all things.… Browning sums it in his swift way : “which fools call Nature and I call God.

Parker also gave a sketch of the ACC, with a report of its progress up to April 15, 1907:

To begin before the beginning, it was foreshadowed twenty-four years ago on a clear, bracing, sunny day, when Sir Sandford Fleming, K.C.M.G., his son, S. Hall Fleming, the late Principal Grant of Queen’s University, and party with pack train emerged from the slow, difficult forest trail and rested at the welcome meadow on Rogers’ pass. Inspired by the glacier-mountains rising far and high about them, they resolved themselves into a Canadian Alpine Club; elected officers; passed a resolution of gratitude to Major Rogers, discoverer of the pass; proposed the conquest of the most formidable peak in the whole region; drank the Club’s health in a stream sparkling at their feet; and so ended. [3]

Camp on Calumet Creek, below Moose Pass. James Shand-Harvey, George Kinney, Conrad Kain, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Charles Walcott Jr., Harry H. Blagden, Ned Hollister, J. H. Riley and A. O. Wheeler. Smithsonian-Alpine Club of Canada Robson Expedition (1911 )Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911. Canadian Alpine Journal 1912, p. 34. Original negative: Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition
Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911 Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

July 1 – September 16, 1911

The 1911 Alpine Club of Canada–Smithsonian joint expedition to the Mount Robson region was initiated by Arthur Oliver Wheeler [1860–1945], director of the Alpine Club of Canada. In his report Wheeler wrote:

Mount Robson is undoubtedly the highest peak of the region… so when the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway pushed the advancing steel in sight of the main range, it was decided by the Alpine Club of Canada to organize an expedition and make direct investigations on its own behalf and in accordance with the propaganda laid down in its constitution, viz., the encouragement of mountain craft and the opening of new regions as a national playground.

Subsequent co-operation and financial assistance by the British Columbia, Alberta and Dominion Governments made it possible to enlarge the scope of the expedition, and an investigation of the fauna, flora, and geology was added to the topographical work first planned. An attempt was made to interest Canadian scientists in the expedition, but without success, so the matter was submitted to Dr. Charles Walcott, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute of Washington, who collaborate most heartily and sent a party of four to join and work with the Alpine Club. [1]

Charles Doolittle Walcott [1850–1927], secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, agree to conduct scientific studies “under the permit of the geology, flora and fauna of the area,” and planned to attend personally, but his wife died in a rail accident shortly before the event. The Smithsonian called its participation the Biological Survey of the Canadian Rockies, recognizing it as an excellent opportunity to gather specimens from the region. The Alpine Club of Canada also helped to pay for a portion of the Smithsonian’s costs for sending staff. Official Smithsonian staff included N. (Ned) Hollister, Assistant Curator in the Division of Mammals (leader); and Joseph Harvey Riley, Aid in the Division of Birds. They were assisted by Charles D. Walcott, Jr. (son of the Secretary of the Institution) and H. H. Blagden. All specimens collected came to the Smithsonian, including mammals, birds, reptiles, batrachians, fishes, invertebrates, and plants. In 1912 Walcott conducted his own investigations in the Mount Robson area.[2]

Wheeler continued:

Mountaineering was not the primary object and the ascent of Robson Peak for the second time had not even received consideration. The intention was to investigate the facilities for holding one of the Club’s big camps close to the great monolith and, while doing so, to make topographical survey of such area as might fall within the scope of the expedition, using photo-topographic methods a as a basis of the work. Notwithstanding, some thirty peaks were climbed, ranging in altitude from 7,000 to 11,000 feet above sea-level.

The expedition was made possible through the co-operation of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, which contributed handsomely towards the expenses. The railway company proposed to open up the northern section of the mountains in a manner similar a to that being done by the Canadian Pacific Railway in the southern section, and was naturally interested in the publicity that would ensue.

The original party consisted of the writer in charge, Konrad Kain, the Club’s professional guide, Byron Harmon, the Club’s official photographer, a and a cook, with the transport and outfitting in the hands of Donald Phillips. Later, George B. Kinney was added as an assistant. Subsequent co-operation and financial assistance by the British Columbia, Alberta and Dominion Governments made it possible to enlarge the scope of the expedition, and an investigation of the fauna, flora, and geology was added to the topographical work first planned. An attempt was made to interest Canadian scientists in the expedition, but without success, so the matter was submitted to Dr. Charles Walcott, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute of Washington, who collaborate most heartily and sent a party of four to join and work with the Alpine Club.

The general line of travel may be described as follows: Commencing at Henry House, the eastern extremity of the survey, the route lay up the valleys of the Athabasca and Miette rivers to the summit of the Continental Divide at the Yellowhead Pass. Thence down the valley of Yellowhead Lake and Fraser River for seventeen miles to the junction of the Moose River with the Fraser. Then up the Moose River Valley to the Moose Pass, where the Continental Divide was again crossed, and down the valley of Calumet Creek (local name Pipestone Creek), to the Smoky River Valley. The Smoky River Valley was next ascended to the Robson Pass where, re-crossing the Continental Divide, the valley of the Grand Fork River was followed to the Fraser Valley, which was ascended to the junction of the Moose River Valley. By this means complete irregular circuit of very nearly 100 miles was made round Mt. Robson, the first that ever has been made, and all the enclosed territory was surveyed as well as a considerable area outside of it.

Nunerous articles about the expedition were published in the Canadian Alpine Journal, Volume 4, 1911. Beginning with Wheeler’s own report, quoted above, accompanied by his topographic map of Mount Robson, there were articles from the Smithsonian party on mammals[3], birds [4], and plants [5], as well as two reports on the return trip to Laggen (Lake Louise) by packhorse.[6][7]