Author Archives: Swany

George R. B. Kinney

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The Reverend George R.B. Kinney; Proctor, BC.

The Reverend George R.B. Kinney; Proctor, BC. BC Archives


Camp among last bushes. 7000 feet. Lucius Coleman, Arthur Coleman, George Kinney. 1907

Camp among last bushes. 7000 feet. Lucius Coleman, Arthur Coleman, George Kinney. 1907 Coleman, The Canadian Rockies. New and Old trails. p. 327


A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911

A.O. Wheeler, Donald “Curly” Phillips, Harry Blagden, Ned Hollister, Charles Walcott Jr., James Shand-Harvey, Casey Jones and Rev. George B. Kinney, near Maligne Lake, Smithsonian-ACC Robson Expedition
Photo: Byron Harmon, 1911 Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

George Rex Boyer Kinney [1872–1961]

b. 1872 — Victoria Corner, New Brunswick, Canada
d. 1961 — Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

Kinney became interested in climbing while serving as a minister of the Methodist Church in Banff and Field [1]. He accompanied Arthur Philemon Coleman [1852–1939] on his unsuccessful trips to Mount Robson in 1907 and 1908 [2]. Kinney returned alone in July 1909, met Donald “Curly” Phillips [1884–1938] near Jasper, and travelled with him through the Yellowhead Pass and the Moose River valley to Mount Robson. After being repelled by weather several times, they reached what Kinney and Phillips reported to be the peak of Mount Robson [3] [4].

During the Alpine Club of Canada camp at Mount Robson in 1913, Phillips stated that he and Kinney had not ascended a final 50-foot dome of snow [5], and official credit for climbing the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies goes to Conrad Kain, William Wasborough Foster [1875–1954], and Albert H. McCarthy [1876–1956] [6].

See Kinney at Robson for more information.
[7]

Kinney is the namesake of the following places in the Mount Robson region:

Events in the Mount Robson region in which Kinney was involved:

  • 1906 ACC organized, Mount Robson attempt proposed
  • 1906 ACC Camp – Yoho
  • 1907 Schaffer meets Coleman in Wilcox Pass
  • 1907 ACC Camp – Paradise Valley
  • 1907 Coleman – Laggan to Robson
  • 1908 Coleman – Edmonton to Robson
  • 1909 Kinney and Phillips at Mount Robson
  • 1909 kinney returns to Edmonton
  • 1911 ACC-Smithsonian Robson expedition (assistant)
Works pertinent to the Mount Robson region of which Kinney was author or co-author:

  • —   Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. AC 014M George Kinney photographs and price lists. (1907). Whyte Museum
  • —   Photographs and price lists (M200 / AC 014M) (1907). Whyte Museum
  • —   Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. Alpine Club of Canada fonds, V14, M200 (1907). Whyte Museum
  • —   “Mount Stephen.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 1 (1907):91
  • —   “Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2 (1909):10-16
  • —   Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. ACC fonds M200/III (1909). Whyte Museum
  • —   “The ascent of Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.” Bulletin of the American Geographical Society, vol. 42, no. 7 (1910):496-511. JSTOR
  • —  and Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44
  • —   “Trail From Maligne Lake To Laggan. Report of the Rev. G. Kinney to the Alpine Club of Canada.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 4 (1912):81
  • —   Canadian Mountain Climbing. Vancouver, B.C.: The Canadian Club of Vancouver, 1913
  • —   London, England: Royal Geographical Society Archives. Letter to Arthur Hinks (1917).
  • —   Carnet de visites, agenda medical (sketchbook created in France) (1919). Library and Archives Canada
  • —   London, England: Royal Geographical Society Archives. Letter to Doctor Hinks (1936).
References:

  • 1. Mortimore, G. E. “The preacher who climbed Mount Robson Peak.” Daily Colonist [Victoria, BC], (9 April 1950)
  • 2. Coleman, Arthur Philemon P. [1852–1939]. The Canadian Rockies: New and Old Trails. London: T. Fisher Unwin, 1911. Internet Archive [accessed 3 March 2025]
  • 3. Kinney, George Rex Boyer [1872–1961], and Phillips, Donald “Curly” [1884–1938]. “To the top of Mount Robson.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):21-44. Alpine Club of Canada
  • 4. Kinney, George Rex Boyer [1872–1961]. Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. ACC fonds M200/III (1909). Whyte Museum
  • 5. Parker, Elizabeth J. [1856–1944]. “A new field for mountaineering.” Scribner’s Magazine, 55 (1914)
  • 6. Kain, Conrad [1883–1934]. “The first ascent of Mt. Robson, the highest peak of the Rockies.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):22-
  • 7. Swanson, James L. [1947–]. Banff: George Kinney and the first ascent of Mount Robson (1999). Spiral Road

Basil S. Darling

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Attempt of Mt. Robson by West Arête. L To R: B. S. Darling, H. H. Prouty, Walter Schauffelberger. Photo C. H. Mitchell, 1913

Attempt of Mt. Robson by West Arête.
L To R: B. S. Darling, H. H. Prouty, Walter Schauffelberger.
Photo C. H. Mitchell, 1913 Canadian Alpine Journal 1915

Darling, Basil Stewart
b. 1885 — Toronto, Ontario, Canada
d. 1962 — Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

During the Robson Camp of 1913 three attempts were made to climb Mount Robson, one of which resulted in the ascent and traverse of the great mountain, an exploit performed with a judgment, dash and finish that should place it in the category of historic climbs. Too much credit cannot be given to W. W. Foster, A. H. MacCarthy and that prince of guides, Conrad Kain, for this fine achievement; probably the most notable piece of mountaineering ever accomplished in Canada. An account of it will be found elsewhere in these pages. It has fallen to me to write of the other attempts, in both of which I had the good fortune to take part. The description of them may be of some interest to other explorers, seeing that new routes were followed and the summit almost attained on each occasion.

The successful ascent on the 31 st July, made the Director ambitious to have another route explored, so on the afternoon of Sunday, August 3rd, he despatched H. H. Prouty and myself, under Walter Schauffelberger’s guidance, to attack the west arête.
[1]

After two nights on the mountain, they were forced by weather to turn back about 100m from the summit.

Works pertinent to the Mount Robson region of which Darling was author or co-author:

  • —   “Passion for Mountain Climbing.” B.C. Magazine, 1910 (1910)
  • —   “The practical side of mountaineering. Some of the rules and requirements of the climber’s craft.” Man-to-Man Magazine, Vol 6, No. 9 (1910)
  • —   “Winter mountaineering at the coast.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):136. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
  • —   “Up the Bow and down the Yoho.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 3 (1911):107-115. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
  • —   “First attempt on Robson by the West Arête.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):29-34
  • —  and MacCarthy, Albert H. [1876–1956]. “An ascent of Mt. Robson from the Southwest.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1915):34-42
Events in the Mount Robson region in which Darling was involved:

  • 1913 ACC Camp – Mount Robson
Also see

References:

  • 1. Darling, Basil Stewart [1885–1962]. “First attempt on Robson by the West Arête.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):29-34

Arthur Oliver Wheeler

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Arthur Oliver Wheeler
b. 1 May 1860 — Kilkenny, Ireland
d. 20 May 1945 — Banff, Alberta

Immigrating to Canada at the age of 16, Wheeler became a land surveyor and surveyed large areas of western Canada, including photo-topographical surveys of the Selkirk Mountains. He was the British Columbia representative on the Alberta-British Columbia Boundary Commission, which surveyed the boundary along the Continental Divide through the Canadian Rockies west to the 120th meridian.

In 1906 he and journalist Elizabeth Parker [1856–1944] were the principal founders of the Alpine Club of Canada. He was its first president, from 1906 to 1910, and editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal from 1907 to 1930. He remained Honorary President of the ACC from 1926 until his death in 1945.

Works pertinent to the Mount Robson region of which Wheeler was author or co-author:

  • —  Whyte Museum Archives. A. O. Wheeler diaries (1885–1944).
  • —  “Report of 1909 Camp [Lake O’Hara].” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 2, No. 2 (1910):147–159. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
  • —  Whyte Museum Archives. Letter to Kinney (1910).
  • —  “Report on Mountaineering [1910 camp, Consolation Valley].” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 3 (1911):134-139. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
  • —  “The Mountains of the Yellowhead Pass.” Alpine Journal, Vol. 26, No.198, London, England (1912):382
  • —  and Smithsonian Institution [founded 1846]. “The Alpine Club of Canada’s expedition to Jasper Park, Yellowhead Pass and Mount Robson region, 1911.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 4 (1912):9-80. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
  • —  and Smithsonian Institution [founded 1846]. “Topographical Map Showing Mount Robson and Mountains of the Continental Divide North of Yellowhead Pass to accompany the Report of the Alpine Club of Canada’s Expedition 1911. From Photographic Surveys by Arthur O. Wheeler; A.C.C. Director.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 4 (1912):8-81. Alpine Club of Canada [accessed 4/2/2025]
  • —  “The Mount Robson Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada.” Alpine Journal, 27 329, London, England (1913)
  • —  Boundary survey between the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta. Victoria: Government of British Columbia, 1913
  • —  Boundary survey between the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta. Victoria: Government of British Columbia, 1914
  • —  “The camps of the Alpine Club of Canada in 1913 and Mr. A.O. Wheeler’s exploratory work.” Alpine Journal, Vol. 28, No.198, London, England (1914):78
  • —  Boundary survey between the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta. Victoria: Government of British Columbia, 1915
  • —  “Report of Mt. Robson camp (1913).” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):179–180
  • —  “Report of Cathedral Mt. Camp (1913).” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):175-
  • —  “Robson Glacier.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):104-107
  • —  “Report of Upper Yoho (1914).” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 6 (1914–1915):181-187
  • —  Survey of the boundary between the provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Victoria: Government of British Columbia, 1916
  • —  “Report of Ptarmigan Lake Camp.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 7 (1916):89-96
  • Cautley, Richard William, D.L.S., A.L.S., C.E. [1873–1953], and —  Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Part I: From 1913 to 1916. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1917
  • —  Survey of the boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia.. Victoria: Government of British Columbia, 1917
  • —  “The location of Mts. Brown and Hooker.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 12 (1921–1922):123-129
  • —  and Lambart, Howard Frederick John F. [1880–1946]. “Mountain reconnaissance by airplane.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 13 (1923):112-118
  • Cautley, Richard William, D.L.S., A.L.S., C.E. [1873–1953], and —  Report of the Commission appointed to delimit the boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Part II. 1917 to 1921. From Kicking Horse Pass to Yellowhead Pass.. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1924. Whyte Museum
  • Cautley, Richard William, D.L.S., A.L.S., C.E. [1873–1953], and —  Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Parts IIIA & IIIB, 1918 to 1924. From Yellowhead Pass Northerly. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925. Whyte Museum
  • Cautley, Richard William, D.L.S., A.L.S., C.E. [1873–1953], and —  Report of the Commission Appointed to Delimit the Boundary between the Provinces of Alberta and British Columbia – Part III – from 1918 to 1924. Atlas. Ottawa: Office of the Surveyor General, 1925
  • —  “A. L. Mumm — An Appreciation.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 16 (1927–1927):173-175
  • —  “Passes of the Great Divide.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 16 (1927–1927):117-135
  • —  “Mounts Brown and Hooker.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 17 (1928):66-68
  • —  “Professor Charles E. Fay, Litt. D.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 19 (1930):113
  • —  “In Memorian: ‘Curly’ Phillips.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 25 (1937):117
  • —  Banff: Whyte Museum Archives. M106/47 (1938).
  • —  “Stanley Hamilon Mitchell [In Memoriam}.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 27 (1939):92-95
Wheeler is credited with naming the following places
(also see places named by the Alberta-British Columbia Boundary Commission)

Events in the Mount Robson region in which Wheeler was involved:

References:

  • “Arthur O. Wheeler. Details of his career.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 27 (1940)
  • Wikipedia. Arthur Oliver Wheeler

Alexander Mackenzie

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Sir Alexander Mackenzie 1800 portrait by Sir Thomas Lawrence

Sir Alexander Mackenzie
1800 portrait by Sir Thomas Lawrence
Wikipedia

Sir Alexander Mackenzie
b. c 1764 — Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, Scotland
d. 12 March 1820 — Dunkeld, Perthshire, Scotland

Alexander Mackenzie, a Scottish-Canadian explorer and fur trader, in 1793 lead a North West Company expedition that started from a post on the Peace River in the Mackenzie River drainage, crossed the Continental Divide to a tributary of the McGregor River in the Fraser River drainage, and continued overland to the Pacific Ocean. This was the first reported crossing of North America north of Mexico.

Details of his life are available on Wikipedia [1], the Dictionary of Canadian Biography [2], and Derek Hayes’s First Crossing [3].

Works pertinent to the Mount Robson region of which Mackenzie was author or co-author:

  • —  Voyages from Montreal on the River St. Lawrence through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in the Years 1789 and 1793 with a Preliminary Account of the Rise, Progress, and Present State of the Fur Trade of That Country. London: T. Cadell, Jun., and W. Davies, 1803. Internet Archive [accessed 3/10/2025]
  • —  First Man West: Alexander Mackenzie’s Journal of His Voyage to the Pacific Coast of Canada in 1793. Edited by Walter Sheppe. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1962
  • —  The journals and letters of Sir Alexander Mackenzie. Edited by W. Kaye Lamb (1904–1999). Cambridge, U.K.: Published for the Hakluyt Society at the University Press, 1970
Mackenzie is the namesake of the following places in the Mount Robson region:

Events in the Mount Robson region in which Mackenzie was involved:

References:

  • 1. Wikipedia. Alexander Mackenzie
  • 2. Lamb, William Kaye [1904–1999]. Mackenzie, Sir Alexander (1764-1820). 1983. Dictionary of Canadian Biography [accessed 19 September 2026]
  • 3. Hayes, Derek [1947–]. First Crossing: Alexander Mackenzie, His Expedition Across North America, and the Opening of the Continent. Vancouver: Douglas & McIntyre, 2001. Internet Archive [accessed 20 September 2026]

North Croydon

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British Columbia. Former locality
Across Fraser River from Croydon
53.078 N 119.7112 W Google — GeoHack
Not currently an official name.

Samuel Clifton was more than just the ferry captain at North Croydon in the 1950s, he was a friend and neighbor to many people in the Robson Valley.

— “Prince George Citizen.” Prince George Citizen, 1950

Norum’s Gulf Service at North Croydon burned to the ground in December 1970.

References:

  • Robson Valley Courier. Weekly newspaper published by Pyramid Press of Jasper from 1968–88 (1968–1988).
Also see:

Whitehorse Mountain

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British Columbia. Mountain
N side of Goat River opposite mouth of North Star Creek
53.4081 N 120.8036 W — Map 093H07 — Google — GeoHack
Name officially adopted in 1923
Official in BC – Topo map from Canadian Geographical Names

Adopted in 1923 as a well-established local name.

References:

Also see:

Dominion Pass

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British Columbia. Unofficial name
Between Castle Creek and Cariboo River
53.0163 N 120.3732 W Google — GeoHack
Not currently an official name.

Location approximate.

From 1871 to 1874, four expeditions searched the Cariboos to determine whether there was a practical route that could be used. In 1871, James A. Mahood, with a large party, left Quesnelle, crossed Dominion pass, and went down Castle river to the Fraser, where he wintered and continued his fruitless search the next year. Dominion pass is northwest of the higher portion of the Cariboos. This crossing with pack animals, may have been the first recorded crossing of a glacial pass in Canadian mountains..

— Zillmer

This pass does not currently seem to have a name. “Dominion Pass” is not currently recognized.

References:

  • Zillmer, Raymond T. [1887–1960]. “Explorations in the Southern Cariboos.” Canadian Alpine Journal, Vol. 27 (1939):48-61. Alpine Club of Canada